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Tracing a Wave’s Epic Journey From Tiny Ripple to What You Surf On

By the time a wave reaches shore, it may have traveled tens of thousands of kilometers. Photo: Ian Mitchinson / Shutterstock Where do those waves come from? How do they form, and why do they break? It’s likely you have a vague understanding, but as it turns out, what we see at the shore is just the last few moments of an epic journey. Great Waves From Tiny Ripples Grow The waves we see crashing on the beach can begin their lives tens of thousands of kilometers away. Surface waves, as they are known, are born when the wind blows over the ocean, amplifying small ripples and transferring momentum from the atmosphere to the water. The height of the wave...

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Surfboards Past and Future

  WHAT SURFBOARDS FROM THE 1800S CAN TEACH US ABOUT SURFING’S PAST A PEEK INSIDE THE NEW SURFBOARD EXHIBIT ON DISPLAY IN HONOLULU THIS DECEMBER. NOVEMBER 2, 2019 BY MATTHEW B. SHAW SOCIAL ICON RSS Photo Credit: Bishop Museum Archives A very early photo of two surfers at Waikīkī, from about 1895. In August of 2020, surfing will be given its biggest platform in modern history when surfers take to the waters off Japan to compete for gold in the Tokyo Olympics. It could be argued, however, that the Sport of Kings reached peak prominence in the early 1700s in the Hawaiian Islands. As many surfers as there are today, in 18th Century Hawaii, virtually everyone surfed. Young, old. Male,...

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Staying on Guard Against Skin Cancer

  If you see something on your skin that is new, changing, not healing or doesn’t seem right, get it checked out as soon as possible. By Jane E. Brody “If you see something, say something,” a catchy warning from the Department of Homeland Security about possible terrorist threats, applies as well to skin lesions that, if ignored, could become fatal. Susan Manber, now a 55-year-old from Cortlandt Manor, N.Y., knows this well. She credits her astute daughter with having saved her life nearly six years ago when Sarina, then 13, remarked, “Mom, what’s that thing on your nose?” That “thing” was a tiny white nodule on the rim of one nostril, a weird place, Ms. Manber thought, for a pimple....

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